Naschmarkt Omas

IMG_4122IMG_4121IMG_4119IMG_4113IMG_4111

Just beyond the flat was the Naschmarkt, open 6 days a week and selling wine, fruit, veg, fish, bread, cheese and spices. In the same district, the 4th, were the following eateries (highly recommended):

IMG_4471

– Figar Bao: only the second place to start selling these Chinese buns in Vienna and a small room with two long tables, chilli mayonnaise, watercress and light quinoa in the chicken bao, iced beer and friendly staff.

IMG_4472

– Vollpension: a cafe for all ages, staffed by retirees (Omas and Opas: grannies and grandads) and a place where the generations can hang out together. The roll and glass of milk for breakfast tickled my fancy, but we went for a much more luxurious affair at Demel (chandeliers. orchids. cake.) in the end.

IMG_4480

– possibly the best kebab shop I’ve seen, with the most beautiful tiles behind the counter, a bar that sold bicycles besides the beer, and a wine shop called the Eulennest (owl nest).

IMG_4473

– a couple of Japanese cafes and a hipster burger place with vegan brownies and fries.

(All photos of the market my own, photos of the other venues from their websites.)

Blog of the week & Mexico City

IMG_4463IMG_4464

I’m still completely absorbed by Sybille Bedford’s A Visit to Don Otavio, and these passages (dinner; setting up a hotel) show why. If it fuels your fever, you really must see Ben Pentreath’s blogs here and here. Normally I dial in to Ben’s pastoral idylls on Mon mornings, but these posts from his travels carry some heat.

Karl and Peter

IMG_4176

Their churches in Vienna…(obviously. The holiday snaps are nearly done.)

IMG_4172IMG_4179IMG_4183IMG_4186IMG_4188

Karlskirche is like an icing-sugar white version of St Peter’s outside, with a lake built before it to reflect it

IMG_4192IMG_4200IMG_4196

It’s a church of St Charles Borromeo, who can be seen on the frescoes of the dome, along with other saints and angels, a cabbage and a stream of gold coins.

IMG_4201IMG_4204IMG_4207IMG_4206

The light in this window reminded me of the Rad Cam in Oxford, as did St Peter’s dome, which appears down a side street,

IMG_4203IMG_4244IMG_4242

Inside was lots more carving and gold, along with some bizarre (symbolic?) flouorescdnt pink rocks and tennis balls on a stick.

IMG_4249IMG_4253IMG_4255IMG_4245IMG_4257IMG_4256

Much nicer than the rather dull cathedral though…

Garden peace

After a sunny afternoon walking (and possible getting a bit too hot), and hiding in a cafe with asparagus soup and Sachertorte to recover, a walk in Vienna brings you to this

IMG_4330IMG_4329IMG_4335

and this

IMG_4307IMG_4317IMG_4315

and this (flute and violin duo doing Michael Jackson hits just out of sight)

IMG_4314IMG_4311IMG_4323

and then this.

IMG_4333

Instant peace.

IMG_4348IMG_4347

Volksgarten and Burggarten, Vienna June 2017.

Vienna’s history

IMG_4274IMG_4264IMG_4271IMG_4283

This is the Judenplatz, where Rachel Whiteread’s memorial to Austria’s Jews now stands. In English and German, the text refers to the murders of 1938-45, and in the streets around little cobbled squares provide sun traps for local cafes, platzes for government buildings and a chance for children to play among the art.

IMG_4286IMG_4288IMG_4290IMG_4292IMG_4294

June 2017.

IMG_4272